Friday night, 11th February … somewhere over the Arabian Sea en route from Mumbai to Dubai.
Flight stats…
Distance Mumbai to Dubai: 1,900km
Flight duration: 2h45min
Airline: Emirates
Flight: EK509
Plane: Airbus A340
Class: Business
Seat: 7A
Departure time: 22h50 India time = 21h20 UAE time = 19h20 SA time
Runway: 27
The MS Word Thesaurus says that synonyms for the word “prejudice” are “chauvinism (n.)”, “bias (n.)”, or “influence (v.)”, with other descriptors being discrimination, contrast, intolerance, injustice, narrow-mindedness, unfairness, preconception, slant and distort.
I arrived in Mumbai 1 week and a few hours ago not knowing what to expect. I now leave marginally wiser, quite humbled, and in some ways not just a little confused.
I guess the single thing that hits most visitors to India is the sheer number of people everywhere. For a city of around 18 million people (I heard numbers quoted that ranged from 16 to 20 million, so let me go with an average!) I guess one would expect to bump into the odd person, quite literally, at every turn. In fact, if you’re walking on the pavement it’s best you keep your line and DON’T turn if you don’t want to bump into someone. Although this inevitably means you’ll get swept along with the heaving crowd and land up where you didn’t want to be. So some intervention is inevitable if you do want to get out of the main-stream flow and make it to where you want to get to. Or, alternatively, just take a taxi and let the driver do the thinking and crowd management for you.
The second thing that certainly flawed me – and I was warned about this, but the society / culture that I come from doesn’t model this in ANY way, shape or form – is the massive, MASSIVE polarity between the “haves” and the have-nots”. But the fascinating thing in this culture is that all parties in the spectrum of this part of humanity is somehow content with their lot in life. Nowhere have I seen or experienced such “harmony” (although this did leave me quite edgy and uneasy). I guess karma is just not a familiar concept to me; the seeming contentedness that people convey in living despite their lot in life, believing that if they continue to live this life peacefully and as satisfied as possible, they will return in the next life to a better lot. Wow, I guess that does mean that one tends to be determined to live with a sense of self-discipline and determination to do good and not rock the proverbial boat. But on the other hand it is scary to know that if you stuff up then your success in the next life is pretty tenuous, and there’s every possibility you could return as that little mosquito that I saw hovering around the selection of cereal at the buffet breakfast in the hotel this morning. I guess that’s one of the luckier mosquitos in India; living it up around the fruit bowl in Mumbai’s Marriott Conference Centre Hotel trying to pretend it’s not being attracted to the nearby UV bug killer. But just think, if that little critter hasn’t sucked blood from some sacred animal – humans included? – its (relatively) short life as a mosquito could be fast nearing its end and it might have the opportunity to return to planet earth incarnated in some upgraded human form – assuming, of course, being human is the pinnacle of life-form!
I should be careful here, lest I start judging a belief system I know little about. Which puts me back in the vulnerable position I was in when I first started writing about my India trip about a week ago when I philosophised about “prejudices”.
Let me quickly make mention of what’s been happening over the past few days since I last commented on life.
My safe arrival back into Mumbai on the train from Khamgaon last Sunday saw me enter a life of luxury – maybe a little like being reincarnated into a better life when compared to the 4-berth sleeper compartment I’d just spent the previous two nights in whilst crossing the rural Indian landscape. Like that little mosquito I referred to, my previous life on the train had definitely been a down-grade from my business class seat on Emirates Airlines flying to Mumbai from South Africa. Although the train experience had been nothing short of a fantastic, memorable mini-adventure that I shall remember with fondness (??) for years to come, it was a welcome relief to walk into my 5-star safe cocoon on the 5th floor of the Marriott Renaissance Hotel overlooking a lake and a part of the Mumbai skyline beyond. I immediately knew I was going to prefer living on this end of the lifestyle spectrum (compared to the crammed train compartment) – some pampered luxury at Unilever’s expense for 5 nights.
I met up with a great colleague and friend of mine, Seha (a Turkish colleague who now works for Unilever from Singapore) and we spent Sunday breakfast catching up together in the hotel. A vehicle and driver was at my disposal for the day so I managed to convince Seha that we didn’t need to start working immediately but that she should join me on a city outing-cum-shopping “spree”, which we duly did. We didn’t get terribly far, visiting 2 Indian clothing boutiques trying to sniff out a bargain on an Indian silk Sari. She eventually had success and we returned to the comforts of the hotel by 3pm with the receipt for a Sari which had been guaranteed would be sent to a local Tailor for some adjusting, and would be delivered back to the hotel later in the week. Hmmm… that remained to be seen! As things turned out the shop owner remained true to his word!!
Upon returning from our shopping stint I periodically gazed at the welcoming pool and pool deck from the balcony of the lounge where Seha and I settled down to half-heartedly discuss work for the rest of the afternoon until dinner time. I’m not sure that that was the best investment of my weekend time in a foreign City when I could’ve been out taking in the sights, sounds, smells and spitting pedestrians of Mumbai. But believe it or not that’s what I settled for. Poor prioritising!!
By evening most of the rest of the foreign contingent for our workshop had arrived at the hotel; the 4 from the UK (Andy x 2, Rob and Duncan), 1 from Holland (Christina), 4 from Brazil (Janette, Janaina, Guillaume and Ligia), 1 from Thailand (Jiraporn), Seha from Singapore, and Derek – the informal Team photographer – from Durban.
Our workshop started on Monday morning. We were based at the hotel where we were joined by about 15 of our Mumbai R&D and Supply Chain counterparts / colleagues. Our working days were long (08h30 – 19h00), but were filled with good topics of discussion, good food and not just a little laughter. On Monday evening we were allowed to enjoy a relaxed evening at the hotel. I even managed to impress myself by going for a cycle in the hotel gym! That was the first and last time those sweaty halls had the pleasure of my company, I have to admit. It was a one-time wonder!!
Tuesday evening saw us foreigners having an opportunity to go to a local market. But thanks to a teleconference with the Nigerian Factory Team that I ended up hosting in my room with 4 of the other workshop delegates concerning recent Project challenges in Nigeria I missed that bus (literally) and so missed out on a night on the town. This bummed me out until I learnt the next morning that the guys had sat in traffic for over 2hrs to get to the local market which was shutting by the time they arrived there at 9pm! So they didn’t get to see much in the end themselves!
On Wednesday night we were treated to an evening of games and a dinner out on the hotel lawns adjacent to the lake. The foreign guys – that included me!! – had our heads wrapped in traditional turbans whilst the women had their hands done up with henna paint artwork and beadwork. It was a good evening under the hazy Indian sky. The weather here didn’t change for the whole week. It’s as predictable and stable as one would hope for on any Island holiday; sunny, not excessively humid, wind-still with temperatures in the mid to late 20’s. The key missing component or twist in the tail was that we WEREN’T on holiday on some exotic island. So in spite of all the other ingredients being in place – good weather, great food and fantastic company – it was all still BUSINESS!
Thursday saw us having a change of scenery by continuing our workshop at HUL (Hindustan Unilever Ltd.) Head Office nearby. And WOW, what a Head Office Facility they have. The building – another cocoon or oasis amidst the Mumbai madness and filth – is an experience to encounter. It houses just on 1,000 employees – not too unlike Unilever H/O in Durban – but has the feel of a 4-storey shopping centre fitted with an air conditioned domed glass roof central “street” flanked by passageways from which the various wings branch off that house the different Business Functions / Operations. There is a 4 storey waterfall at one end, a glass-domed atrium at the arrivals / reception at the other end, and all the offices in between, with hanging walkways connecting the upper levels at each floor. There is a grocery store that stocks all Unilever products, a florist, a beauty salon, 2 banks, an ice cream (Walls / Ola = Unilever brand) shop, coffee shop, couches / pause areas, umpteen free drinks / coffee stations, a massive canteen, a crèche for employee’s children, complete Wi-Fi coverage, and (apparently somewhere in the basement) a gym with a badminton court. On the same property they are busy constructing a 120 room 5-star hotel and training centre for Unilever employees which is where the likes of our Team would stay in future, instead of utilising city hotels and fighting the traffic. Wow – what is this place? Did I say something earlier on about the disparity between the haves and have-nots? Did I not also comment about the corporate social responsibility that I saw this great company (note me scoring brownie points!!) offering to the remote community of Khamgaon? So how does one reconcile this impressive “opulence” with the poverty out on the nearby pavement? I won’t pretend to try to answer that aside from acknowledging that Unilever’s products do touch the lives of millions of people around the world – and even just in this one country – hourly!
Anyway, that was some free PR work I was doing on behalf of this fine Company in order to fund the future success and existence of this Blog.
We spent Thursday and Friday in various meetings and sessions with the Mumbai Team at Head Office.
On Thursday evening some 18 of us were ushered into cars that meandered through the traffic rush to the southern end of the “Island” / peninsula that is Mumbai. Here some of us got to see the famous “Gateway to India” – a plaza and big monument that celebrates the arrival of the King & Queen of England in 1914 when India was still a British Colony. That was great just strolling between the myriad of sightseers, locals, hawkers and beggars on the plaza in front of this iconic Mumbai landmark sipping masala tea and flashing photos at every turn. I could’ve spent half a day there just watching the passing parade, photographing the changing scenery and faces. But time didn’t allow for this as we were hurried back to the car then off to the National Performing Arts Company Theater to watch a traditional dance show done by an Indian woman accompanied by 5 musicians – all ballies, but clearly accomplished musicians – playing their local traditional instruments whilst this dancer danced out a well known Hindu story but put a spin on it that would’ve excited any Women’s Libber seeking the emancipation of women from the tyranny of men and love!! I’ll not be prejudice here. Suffice to say, though, that the musicians were brilliant and the dancer created eye and facial expressions that – aside from her graceful hand and body movements – told a story in themselves. It was quite extraordinary. And at 100 rupees for a ticket (some 15 ZA Rands / US$2) this was almost an insult to the Arts when in fact Seha was saying that a show of this calibre would easily cost in excess of US$100 in Singapore. Hmmm…where’s the justice in that?
Driving back to the hotel after our little cultural immersion – the show lasted 2hrs with NO intermission; how’s that for endurance by the Dancer, the musicians, and maybe even the audience – it was another treat to drive back to the hotel through the congested Mumbai streets at 21h30 on a Thursday night with the car window down, soaking up the chaotic street life. Seeing limbless beggars lying almost mangled on the pavement, kids with babies begging at cars whilst others were selling new paperback novels (all pretty much cheap copies!) for next to nothing, contented couples and families ambling along the sea-front promenade, tuk-tuks weaving through the traffic, hooters honking incessantly, and revered cows roaming the streets soaking up the down-town Mumbai night life. It was quite fascinating, jarring and confusing all at the same time. Seha and I couldn’t help but wonder why the new Metro that is bring built in the City has turned into a Sky Train (like in Bangkok); that seems to be a little – just a little?? – bit of scope creep in what looks like a massive mass-transit logistical nightmare in this maize of humanity. Apparently it was supposed to have been the start of a Metro system, but as the Developers started realising the vast extent of unknown subterranean infrastructure that makes up Mumbai, building a tunnelled Metro system was going to be a massive risk and building challenge. So the Metro has evolved from sub-surface to supra-surface (is this a word??) but is still known as the Metro – maybe so that the Developer’s change in scope and budget won’t have to be re-approved by the Authorities. This viewpoint was an “excerpt” from a cynical little discussion I had with someone at Head Office this afternoon who was trying to answer my questions about the rail network!
My view was that the City may have decided that creating an underground rail network would only create an illegitimate housing nightmare for the destitute in the city which would be impossible to police and control by City Officials. Who knows … Let’s just hope they get it built. Democracy in India is a painful, bitter-sweet virtue of these amazing people. So getting ANYTHING done requires the support and buy-in of EVERYONE. Building a railway in these jam-packed streets could become a formidable activity that could last a generation whilst trying to muster the support of every street shop owner along the route. No small feat!!!
I’ve loved Mumbai. I don’t know that I’d love it in the middle of a sweltering summer; but in early spring it makes for a good visit. The people (I interacted with) are amazing. It’s safe. It’s congested. It’s dirty. It’s smoggy. It’s quite cheap. It’s full of surprises. And I’d go back. I am once again grateful for the opportunity to experience “luxury” Business Travel and amazing Global Business Colleagues who are fabulous people.
Am I privileged? Immensely.
Am I wealthy? Extravagantly so (materially and spiritually!).
Am I prejudiced? I think I am!!
Visit India. It will shake and reshape a bit of your world.
Just don't take a shower at the airport just before departure and nearly miss your flight!!!
Thank you Andy Mac for holding the flight & practically fetching me!!
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